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Lesson

iPhone 5 Power Button Replacement

Completion requirements

Step 1 Phone on Heat Plate

Put the phone upside down to heat plate to
loosen the glue.

Tip:
Set the heat plate at 90 degree Centigrade
Leave the phone for 3-5 minutes.


Step 2 Taping the display Glass

If your display glass is cracked, keep further
breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during
your repair by taping over the glass.

Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the
iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

This will keep glass shards contained and provide
structural integrity when prying and lifting the
display.

Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any
glass shaken free during the repair.


Step 3 Remove the Pentalobe Screws


Before you proceed, discharge your
iPhone battery below 25%. A charged
lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or
explode if accidentally punctured.


Power off your iPhone before beginning
disassembly.

Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe
screws next to the Lightning connector.


Step 4 How to prevent display separation


In the following steps you will be pulling the display
up out of the phone body. The display is composed of
a glass screen and a plastic bezel with metal clips.
Regardless of the tool you use, you need to be sure
you pull up the entire display.


If the glass begins to separate from the plastic, as
shown in the first image, slide a plastic opening tool
between the plastic frame and the metal phone body
to pry the metal clips out of the case.


If you are reassembling a phone with a separated
display bezel, you may want to place a thin strip of
adhesive between the plastic bezel and the glass to
keep the phone closed.


Step 5 Starting the iSclack Opening Procedure


The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a
great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5 that we
recommend for anyone doing more than one
repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to Step 6.
Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the
suction-cup jaws.


Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the
suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.
The top suction cup should rest just above the 
home button.


Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack.
Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto
the top and bottom of the iPhone.


Step 6 Finishing the iSclack Opening Procedure

Hold onto your iPhone securely and close
the handle of the iSclack to separate the
suction cups, pulling the front panel up from
the rear case.

The iSclack is designed to safely open your
iPhone just enough to separate the pieces,
but not enough to damage any cables.

Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.
Skip the next three steps and continue
on Step 9.


Step 7 Manual Opening Procedure

Press a suction cup onto the screen, just
above the home button.

Be sure the cup is completely on the screen
to get a tight seal.


If you're opening an iPhone with cracked
glass, neatly lay a couple strips of packing
tape across the front and squeeze out as
many bubbles as you can. This will give the
suction cup a surface to grab, and minimize
the spread of broken glass.


Step 8 Start lifting the front panel assembly


Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the
front panel assembly.


While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull
up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front
panel assembly from the rear case.

Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The
screen is a much tighter fit than most devices.
With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the
rear case down, away from the screen, while you
pull up with the suction cup.

There are several clips attaching the front panel
assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use
a combination of the suction cup and plastic
opening tool to free the front panel assembly.


Step 9 Detaching the front panel side clips

Continue to pry up around the sides of the
front panel assembly, detaching the clips
along the left and right side.


Step 10 Opening up the phone

Do not try to completely remove the front panel

assembly from the rear case, as there are

several ribbon cables still attached at the top of

the iPhone.

Once the clips have been released on the
bottom and sides of the front panel assembly,
pull the bottom of the assembly away from the
rear case.

Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean
it against something to keep it propped up
while you're working on the phone.
Add a rubber band to keep the display
securely in place while you work. This
prevents undue strain on the display cables.

Step 11 Removing the battery connector bracket screws clips

Remove the following two screws securing
the metal battery connector bracket to the
logic board:

One 1.8 mm Phillips screw
One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

Step 12 Removing the battery connector bracket

Remove the metal battery connector
bracket from the iPhone.

Step 13 Disconnecting the battery connector

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the
battery connector up from its socket on the
logic board.

Be careful not to dislodge the small
surface-mounted components surrounding
the socket.

Be very careful to only pry up on the battery
connector itself and not the socket on the
logic board. If you pry up on the logic board
socket or the board itself, you may destroy
the socket or damage nearby components
on the board.

Step 14 Removing the front panel assembly cable bracket screws

Remove the following screws securing the
front panel assembly cable bracket to the
logic board:

Two 1.2 mm Phillips screws
One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

This screw tends to not be attracted to a
magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to
lose it when removing, and make sure it
gets back into the right place—a
magnetized screw may interfere with the
compass.


Step 15 Removing the front panel assembly cable bracket


Lift the display cable bracket toward the
battery to unhook it, and remove it from the
iPhone.

During reassembly, clip the left-hand hooks
under the logic board and lower the bracket
towards the outside of the phone.


Step 16 Disconnecting the front panel assembly cables


Make sure the battery is disconnected before you
disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.
Use a plastic opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect
the three front panel assembly cables:

Front-facing camera and sensor cable
LCD cable
Digitizer cable

When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop
off the connector. This can cause white lines, or nothing
at all to appear when powering your phone back on. If
that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power
cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your
phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.


Step 17 Separating front panel assembly and rear case


Remove the front panel assembly from the
rear case.


Step 18 Lifting the Battery


Use the exposed clear plastic pull tab to peel
the battery off the adhesive securing it to
the iPhone.

If you have trouble peeling the battery up,
use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the rear
case of the iPhone and soften the adhesive.

The plastic tab is fragile and may break. If
your tab breaks before the battery is freed,
refer to the following steps.


Step 19 Using the iOpener


If the tab breaks off and the battery remains stuck to

the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer

to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.

This will soften the adhesive holding the battery,
making it easier and safer to pry out of the case.

Step 20 Prying up the Battery

Use the plastic opening tool to gently pry the
battery up, only at the outside edge of the
phone. Prying anywhere else, especially near
the logic board, may result in damage to the
logic board.

If the battery doesn't pry easily out of the case,
reheat and reapply the iOpener and try again.

Pry gently and evenly to avoid deforming the
battery. A bent battery can be a fire hazard.

Do not pry at the top portion of the battery,
you risk severing the volume control cables.

Step 21 Removing the Battery

Remove the battery.

If your replacement battery came in a plastic
sleeve, remove it before installation by
pulling it away from the the ribbon cable.

During reassembly, make sure the battery is
seated firmly against the rear case. This will
prevent any damage to other components
when reinstalling the front panel assembly.


Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This
can prevent several issues and simplify
troubleshooting.


Step 22 Logic Board Assembly


Use the tip of a spudger to pry the cellular
data antenna cable connector up from its
socket on the logic board, just above the
speaker enclosure.


Step 23

Remove the following two screws securing
the top logic board bracket to the rear case:

One 1.5 mm Phillips screw
One 2.3 mm Phillips screw

Step 24

Remove the bracket from the top of the logic
board.

Be sure not to break off the tiny grounding tab
that sticks up off of the bracket next to the
rear facing camera.

On newer models, the bracket may be
attached to the camera housing and will not
come completely out.


Step 25


Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect
the following three cables from the logic
board:

Upper interconnect cable
Button assembly cable
Lower interconnect cable


Step 26


Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws
from the inner top of the rear case.


Step 27

Remove the single 1.2 mm Phillips screw

remaining in the mid-section logic board
bracket.

Step 28

Remove the mid-section bracket from the logic
board.

Step 29

Use a spudger to pry the Lightning connector
cable connector up from its socket on the logic
board.


Gently peel the cable back and out of the way
of the logic board.


Step 30


Depress the SIM card release on the right
side of the iPhone with a SIM card eject tool
or a bent paperclip to eject the SIM card
tray.

Alternatively, you can press the SIM card
eject lever from the inside with the flat end
of a spudger.


Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone.


Step 31

Remove the following screws securing the logic board
to the rear case:

Two 2.3 mm Phillips screws
Two 2.7 mm standoff screws

Standoff screws are best removed using an iPhone
Standoff Screwdriver Bit and driver handle.

In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the
job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and
damage surrounding components.

One non-magnetic 2.7 mm standoff screw
Be sure to put this screw back in its original position at
the top of the logic board. A magnetized screw may
interfere with the digital compass.

Step 32

Rotate the logic board assembly toward the
battery side of the rear case.

Do not attempt to completely remove the
logic board assembly from the rear case, yet;
there is still one cable connected to the
underside of the logic board.

The flash surround is adhered to the flash
unit and the rear case. If it stays on the rear
case remove with tweezers and mount it
back on the flash unit.

Note: when reassembling your device, be
sure that the lower interconnect cable is not
tucked underneath the logic board.


Step 33


Use the tip of a spudger to pry the Wi-Fi

antenna cable connector up from its socket on

the underside of the logic board.

Step 34


Remove the logic board assembly from the
rear case.

While your logic board is out of your phone,
keep it on a grounded anti-static mat to
prevent any damage to the circuitry.


Step 35


Use the tip of a spudger to remove the rubber
bumper from below the power button.


Step 36


Remove the following screws from the metal
bracket between the rear facing flash and
camera windows:


One 2.9 mm standoff screw

Standoff screws are best removed with
a standoff screwdriver or standoff driver bit. A
small flathead screwdriver can also do the
job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't
slip and damage surrounding components.

One 1.6 mm Phillips screw
One 1.9 mm Phillips screw


Step 37


Remove the metal bracket between the rear
facing flash and camera windows.


Step 38


Use the tip of a spudger to flip the metal bracket
holding the power switch away from the top of
the rear case.


Step 39

Press the power button into the rear case
from the outside of the phone with the tip
of a spudger.

Remove the power button.

When installing the power button, make
sure the hinged metal loop on the back is
flipped up, as shown—not down.


Step R-01


Press the power button into the rear case
from the outside of the phone with the tip
of a spudger.

Remove the power button.

When installing the power button, make
sure the hinged metal loop on the back is
flipped up, as shown—not down.


Step R-02


Use the tip of a spudger to flip the metal bracket
holding the power switch away from the top of
the rear case.


Step R-03


Remove the metal bracket between the rear
facing flash and camera windows.


Step R-04


Remove the following screws from the metal
bracket between the rear facing flash and
camera windows:


One 2.9 mm standoff screw

Standoff screws are best removed with
a standoff screwdriver or standoff driver bit. A
small flathead screwdriver can also do the
job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't
slip and damage surrounding components.

One 1.6 mm Phillips screw
One 1.9 mm Phillips screw


Step R-05

Use the tip of a spudger to remove the rubber
bumper from below the power button.


Step R-06

Remove the logic board assembly from the
rear case.
While your logic board is out of your phone,
keep it on a grounded anti-static mat to
prevent any damage to the circuitry.


Step R-07

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the Wi-Fi
antenna cable connector up from its socket on
the underside of the logic board.

Step R-08

Rotate the logic board assembly toward the
battery side of the rear case.

Do not attempt to completely remove the
logic board assembly from the rear case, yet;
there is still one cable connected to the
underside of the logic board.

The flash surround is adhered to the flash
unit and the rear case. If it stays on the rear
case remove with tweezers and mount it
back on the flash unit.


Note: when reassembling your device, be
sure that the lower interconnect cable is not
tucked underneath the logic board.


Step R-09


Remove the following screws securing the logic board
to the rear case:

Two 2.3 mm Phillips screws
Two 2.7 mm standoff screws

Standoff screws are best removed using an iPhone
Standoff Screwdriver Bit and driver handle.

In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the
job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and
damage surrounding components.

One non-magnetic 2.7 mm standoff screw
Be sure to put this screw back in its original position at
the top of the logic board. A magnetized screw may
interfere with the digital compass.


Step R-10

Use a spudger to pry the Lightning connector

cable connector up from its socket on the logic
board.
Gently peel the cable back and out of the way
of the logic board.
Step R-11
Remove the mid-section bracket from the logic
board.
Step R-12
Remove the single 1.2 mm Phillips screw
remaining in the mid-section logic board
bracket.


Step R-13


Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws
from the inner top of the rear case.


Step R-14


Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect

the following three cables from the logic
board:

Upper interconnect cable
Button assembly cable
Lower interconnect cable

Step R-15

Remove the bracket from the top of the logic
board.

Be sure not to break off the tiny grounding tab
that sticks up off of the bracket next to the
rear facing camera.

On newer models, the bracket may be
attached to the camera housing and will not
come completely out.


Step R-16

Remove the following two screws securing
the top logic board bracket to the rear case:

One 1.5 mm Phillips screw
One 2.3 mm Phillips screw

Step R-17 The Battery

Remove the battery.

If your replacement battery came in a plastic
sleeve, remove it before installation by
pulling it away from the the ribbon cable.

During reassembly, make sure the battery is
seated firmly against the rear case. This will
prevent any damage to other components
when reinstalling the front panel assembly.

Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This

can prevent several issues and simplify
troubleshooting.


Step R-18 Front panel assembly and rear case

Remove the front panel assembly from the
rear case.

Step R-19 The front panel assembly cables

Make sure the battery is disconnected before you
disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

Use a plastic opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect
the three front panel assembly cables:

Front-facing camera and sensor cable
LCD cable
Digitizer cable

When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop
off the connector. This can cause white lines, or nothing
at all to appear when powering your phone back on. If
that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power
cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your
phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.


Step R-20 The front panel assembly cable bracket


Lift the display cable bracket toward the
battery to unhook it, and remove it from the
iPhone.

During reassembly, clip the left-hand hooks
under the logic board and lower the bracket
towards the outside of the phone.


Step R-21 The front panel assembly cable bracket screws

Remove the following screws securing the
front panel assembly cable bracket to the
logic board:

Two 1.2 mm Phillips screws
One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

This screw tends to not be attracted to a
magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to
lose it when removing, and make sure it
gets back into the right place—a
magnetized screw may interfere with the
compass.


Step R-22 The battery connector

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the

battery connector up from its socket on the

logic board.
Be careful not to dislodge the small
surface-mounted components surrounding
the socket.
Be very careful to only pry up on the battery
connector itself and not the socket on the
logic board. If you pry up on the logic board
socket or the board itself, you may destroy
the socket or damage nearby components
on the board.

Step R-23 The battery connector bracket

Remove the metal battery connector
bracket from the iPhone.

Step R-24 The battery connector bracket screws clips

Remove the following two screws securing
the metal battery connector bracket to the
logic board:

One 1.8 mm Phillips screw
One 1.6 mm Phillips screw


Step R-25 The phone

Do not try to completely remove the front panel
assembly from the rear case, as there are
several ribbon cables still attached at the top of
the iPhone.
Once the clips have been released on the
bottom and sides of the front panel assembly,
pull the bottom of the assembly away from the
rear case.
Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean
it against something to keep it propped up
while you're working on the phone.
Add a rubber band to keep the display
securely in place while you work. This
prevents undue strain on the display cables.


Step R-26 The Pentalobe Screws


Before you proceed, discharge your
iPhone battery below 25%. A charged
lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or
explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning
disassembly.


Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe
screws next to the Lightning connector.